By Russell Dessaix-Chin
View of Pythagorion, with the Medieval Castle in the background against the blue Aegean
Have you ever thought back to your school days, and in particular mathematics, and remember learning about a Greek mathematician called Pythagoras? Did you curse his very name for all those boring lessons about the sides of triangles…because really, who ever uses triangles in real life? So if you have ever wondered where Pythagoras lived and would like to go there to take his name in vain, in person, look no further.
The author enjoying the sunshine and deep blue amongst ruins over 500 years old
Where is Samos?
Samos is a part of the Greek Isles, and one of the most outer lying of them. In fact it is much closer to mainland Turkey than mainland Greece – at one point it is a mere 800m from Turkish shores. So it is possible to stand on one continent (Europe) and gaze upon another (Asia)! As Samos is one of the more isolated Greek islands it is largely untouched by the backpacking hordes, enabling the visitor to enjoy a more genuine Mediterranean experience.
Landscape
The landscape is typical of this warm and dry region, with exposed rocky peaks making up the large portion of the environment. Samos once was covered in dense forest, but successive wildfires over the past decades have affected the vegetation to the point that it may never return to its former glory. Some forest still remains in patches about the island. Several impressive and sheer looking mounts dot the surrounds, worthy of alpine comparisons. The semi-arid landscape in some parts would be harsh on the eyes anywhere else, but with the brilliant deep blue of the Aegean Sea always surrounding you, and visible from any high point on Samos, the refreshing effect is instantaneous. And then you go for a swim in it…
Pythagorion Harbour – claimed to be the first man-made harbour in the world
Climate
Like any other island in the Mediterranean, the summer days are clear, dry and hot with a constant sea breeze offering much needed respite most days. Winters generally are mild to cool, although occasionally a cold front will come busting down from the north (i.e. Russia) and dump a dusting of snow on the mountainous parts of Samos.
People
As the backpacker circuit does not usually include a raid on Samos, the locals are a little more relaxed and genuinely friendly to someone new. “Tense” for the island locals, is we would still call “relaxed”. There is no other way to be on Samos.
Attractions
Underground Church
Many centuries ago a group of monks decided to beat the heat and head underground with their church. They had discovered a hole in the ground that went deep into the side of a mountain and built a small grotto at its furthest point, including a small chapel complete with a roof. There is also a small pool where holy water is gathered from the dripping roof. It is surprisingly cool down there in the depths of the earth and it is a little strange to have stepped from a bright hot world to one where your breath mists in front of your face. A long time ago, during a particularly bad wildfire, residents escaped certain death by holing up in the cave.
Inside the Eupalinus Tunnel
Eupalinus Tunnel
Just down from the underground church is the Eupalinus Tunnel, a marvel of ancient engineering innovation and determination. Many centuries ago, the village of Pythagorion lay on the side of a large mountain (as it still does today), and on the other was a much-needed source of fresh water. The problem was getting that water to the village. Some bright sparks hit upon the idea of digging a tunnel straight through the mountain and diverting the water that way. Work was started from opposite sides of the mountain with the aim of meeting in the middle. Several years of digging later the two tunnels had been completed. The only problem was that they had missed each other by 50 cm! The necessary adjustments were subsequently made, and the water flowed. Considering that all this work was executed before the age of GPS, accredited surveyors, computer aided design, fluorescent vests and hard hats, it was an amazing achievement. Inquisitive tourists can take a short journey underground and inspect the works.
Pythagorion
A statue of the big man himself on Pythagorion Harbour. He is pointing at his beloved Hypotenuse
If there ever was a name of a township that didn’t need explaining…this would be it. The proud birthplace of Pythagoras needed look no further than the master of all things triangular for its title. It is a quaint seaside town boasting a medieval castle, 1500 year old harbour, and, of course, the obligatory statue of Pythagoras. The harbour, now filled with luxury yachts as well as fishing vessels, is claimed to be the first man-made harbour of the civilised world. There are also several other intriguing treasure troves to be found if you take the time to explore the town in detail. Have a look!
Kalogeriko
I had the great pleasure of staying a few nights with some bona fide Samos locals in their “holiday” home by the Mediterranean. Their real home lay on the other side of the island. It was a massive two storey place, literally a stone’s throw from the brilliant blue. The tiny village consisted of one road, on one side the sea and on the other, all the houses – with the everpresent steep hills
Samos’ “little sister” island. It has two buildings on it, a house…and of course, a church
pressing in from behind. Several restaurants and cafes also dotted the sea front, with nothing opening until late afternoon in the summertime. The usual post-lunch routine is to go for a swim, have a coffee, go for another swim, and have some dinner (a local seafood feast is highly recommended). Then followed perhaps by another swim. The remainder of the evening is spent sitting in a café which has magically transformed into a bar, drinking without urgency and catching up on the day’s swimming. There are multitudes of similarly set up seaside villages dotted all over the island, just waiting to be discovered by intrepid tourists, each one with its own unique atmosphere. You just have take the time to explore every kilometre of the winding, narrow roads that criss-cross the island.
A Word of Warning…
Possibly the loneliest church in the world
Before you hit the sapphire shores of Samos, make sure that you really love your hometown, and your intention to return is solid (and just to be sure, buy a return ticket). Because you will be sorely, sorely tempted to disappear into the Samos way of life and never return to the outside world. Life is good on Samos, and once there, you can see why the locals endeavour to keep it that way…
