The place I’m visiting is the Jigokudani Monkey Park, less than an hour from the hustle and bustle of Nagano. In a country where space is at a premium it’s good to see that right next door to a major city, a huge park like this exists. But that’s how significant these monkeys are. They even get food delivered to them, and a private hot tub, next thing you know there’s gonna be a masseuse up here! Though despite the par being incredibly well known, it’s relatively uncrowded. Maybe it’s the cold, or the two kilometer walk along a narrow path to get to the park that keeps the tourists away? Whatever the cause, it’s a plus for the animals.

Every day keepers come into the park to feed the snow monkeys and also watch over the visiting tourists, to make sure people don’t get too friendly with the macaques. While the monkeys might seem tame, they’re still wild animals. And the goal of the park is to conserve the snow monkeys as their habitat slowly shrinks.

The park is located in a dramatic setting, often referred to as Hells Valley. It’s an appropriate handle for this most primordial of environments. Clouds of steam billow from the ground and boiling water bubbles from the cracks, melting the snow that covers the earth for much of the year. The valley is steep and rocky, with a hostile forest covering the landscape above, and at its base is the fast flowing Yokoyu River.

While the park itself is pretty amazing, it’s the monkeys that are the main attraction. They’re somewhat of a Japanese icon, and apart from their cute exteriors, their behaviour is what has made them famous.

During the warmer months, the macaques spend their time foraging in the forest, feeding on things like seeds, berries and roots. But with the onset of winter, this most harsh of habitats forces the monkeys to seek warmth. So they leave the sanctuary of the woods and head for the nearest hot tub! I mean this quite literally. The monkeys emerge from the trees and sit in the hot water of the natural springs found in the park. To help facilitate this, people have built them a natural spa, or as the Japanese call it, an onsen. The snow monkeys treat it just like a human would, reclining in the water and soaking up the warmth. I wonder if they realise the spring has healing qualities too?

There’s over 100 hundred macaques in this population, and generally you can expect to see a large portion of the troop wandering through the grounds and sitting in the pool. There’s a genuine hierarchy among the monkeys, with the dominant males using their superior mass and aggression to maintain the best position in the water. Then there are the ladies. Well, their femininity doesn’t really extend much beyond caring for the young. They have a ranking of their own that is apparently inherited from their mother. I’ve also heard that they have the less than lady-like tendency of mating with an average of ten males each season.

The behaviour of the squabbling adult monkeys was quite intriguing, but it was the antics of the offspring that caught my eye. I had read that macaques were highly intelligent, doing things like washing their food before eating it, though I didn’t expect it to be so evident, particularly in the young ones. The cute little babies played like a human child would, chasing each other, throwing pebbles and even rolling snowballs. They were also extremely inquisitive, looking straight down my camera lens and marvelling at their reflections. At one stage I had a tiny ball of fur holding the sides of my camera and cocking its head as it seemed to be trying to work out which one of his friends he was looking at!

The monkeys have big, expressive eyes and watch everything that’s happening around them. You can almost see them thinking and I couldn’t help but wonder what was going through their minds. It’s easy to spend an entire day at the park, just watching the macaques as they go about their business. But there’s a whole lot more to explore in this part of Japan, so I hit the road. Next stop – Matsumoto Castle!

Operation Sunshine was an initiative of Matt’s, hatched out of a desire to get people back to Queensland to see that despite the recent floods and cyclones, the state is still open for business. He brought together partners of his, like Jetstar, Ford, Village Roadshow and various tourism bodies, then it was time to hit the road. The mission was simple. Visit the devastated centres to meet the locals and have a chat about what can be done to help them. Then through Facebook, Twitter, radio broadcasts, TV crosses on Sunrise and the print media, Matt would be able to showcase to the public that indeed there are some places that have been damaged, but most of the state is ready and waiting for tourists.

It all started on the Gold Coast with the Gold FM breakfast radio crew, before heading to the Lockyer Valley, west of Brisbane. This tiny community bore the brunt of massive flash flooding, and was the scene of incredible devastation and loss of life. Here we met a few of the locals, including Mark Tully, a livestock breeder that lost almost everything in the disaster. His story is similar to many in the region. Mark might be doing it tough, but he’s battling on.

Next it was back to Brisbane for a press conference. Here Matt engaged the media about his plans and signed a pledge to do his part to help Queensland. There were journalists presents from around the world that all heard Matt’s passionate plea to spread the word that the Sunshine State needs you and that it is one of the most amazing playgrounds on the planet. This event set the scene for the days ahead, as we headed north.

An early morning flight to Townsville saw the journey begin proper. The smiling Jetstar crew made the dawn start a little more pleasant. Arriving we were greeted by sunshine and immediately got to work. First stop, Reef HQ to learn a bit about the turtle hospital and release a turtle back into the wild. Next we met with a tour operator, Tropic Sail, who has been doing tough for the past 6 months. Wendy was all smiles as Matt reassured her he’s doing his best to get people back to the area. From here there was a brief bit of respite, as Matt had a cooking lesson at the Townsville Holiday Inn with the resident chef. But the highlight of the day was meeting Jonathon Thurston from the North Queensland Cowboys. He was a lot of fun and happy to lend his star power to the cause.

The following morning it was a 3:30am wakeup to meet the Sunrise weather team at Reef HQ for a live cross. Here Matt donned a wetsuit and dive gear and swam with the sharks in the aquarium. It’s not often you get to hug a man-eater, but Matt jumped at the chance! From there we drove into the region where cyclone Yasi struck the land. It was the towns just north of Townsville and south of Cairns that were battered most by the wind and rain. Places like Tully and Ingham were nearly wiped from the map and several months on the fallen trees and roofless homes are evidence of the storm. We stopped at both these townships, where Matt handed out grants to community groups to help them get their sporting and social clubs started again. It was also a chance to chat to the locals and enjoy a barbecue lunch. The day ended with the beautiful drive to the Daintree Rainforest, where we spent the night at the stunning Daintree Eco Lodge.

The next morning saw a walk through the forest with an indigenous guide from the lodge. His stories of the past and the significance of the forest put a lot of things into context. His people have lived here for thousands of years, in harmony with nature. But there wasn’t time for too much relaxation because there was a tight schedule to stick to. A helicopter flight over the forest with Sky Safari brought us to Port Douglas where a quick trip to the reef on board Reef Sprinter provided some respite from the heat. Next it was lunch at the pub before heading to Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures to feed the resident crocs.

Capping off a hectic week was the best thing of all, spending some time on a secluded beach! It was a great journey and for several reasons it was a real eye opener. We saw some amazing sites, met remarkable people and heard many stories. But most importantly, it was a chance to be part of something special – Operation Sunshine. Lets hope this is the start of something much greater and we can play a part in helping Queensland recover.

Visit: www.operationsunshine.com.au to keep up to date with Operation Sunshine.

Or go to: www.facebook.com/Opsunshine

The IAAF World Championships is this year’s biggest track and field event. It will see the world’s leading athletes converge on the colourful and vibrant city of Daegu, Korea, for the chance to take home the title of being the world’s best in their chosen event.

This edition will be the fourth IAAF World Championships in Athletics to be held outside of Europe, and the first games in mainland Asia. So the organisers are making a big effort to showcase all that Korea has to offer. From interesting history and unique culture, to spectacular landmarks, amazing temples and delicious food, there’s something for everybody in this special place.

Located in the heart of the southeastern region of the Korean Peninsula, Daegu is a major hub, with its convenient transportation networks connecting to every city in Korea within two hours. Seven expressways, the high speed Korean Express Train (KTX), an international airport and an hour’s drive to the harbour makes Daegu an easily accessible destination. So for travelers it’s the perfect place to base yourself before exploring the rest of the country.

The championships will be held in Daegu Stadium, the second largest sports complex in South Korea with a seating capacity of over 66,000. The Teflon roof, which resembles the thatched roofs of traditional Korean houses, provides natural light and was designed to give optimum viewing for spectators. The stadium has also been built for performance, using state of the art technology to get the most out of the athletes. So you can expect fast times, long jumps, big throws and above all else, loads of excitement!

Beyond attending the championships, there’s plenty to see and do in Daegu. The shopping is fantastic, as are the traditional markets. Here you can find all sorts of gadgets, art and clothing, which make great gifts for friends and family back home. Plus you can try some of the local delicacies that Korea is famous for. Yangnyeongsi, in Namseongno, is the oldest market for Korean medicinal herbs in the country, with a history spanning 350 years.

For sightseeing there are several must do’s. The most well known sight in the city is the stone Buddha called Gatbawi, which sits on the top of Gwanbong Mountain. Then there’s Haeinsa, a Buddhist temple that houses the Tripitaka Koreana. This is a woodblock edition of the Tripitaka and one of the world’s oldest complete collections of the Buddhist scriptures. Next is Dalseong Park, which sits inside a 1500-year-old earth fortress. This is a historic part of the city and contains the city’s only zoo. Finally there’s Apsan, in the southern part of the city. This mountain park has many trails, Buddhist temples, a Korean War museum, and a gondola ride to the peak – great for views of the area!

For more information on Korea visit: www.visitkorea.or.kr

For more information about the 2011 IAAF World Championships visit: http://www.daegu2011.org/do/front/main/en

It was page four of my Sydney road atlas that grabbed immediate attention. To the south of the urban sprawl and maze of streets there was a large block of green. Upon closer inspection I realised that it was none other than The Royal National Park. I had been there on bike rides and trail runs several times before, yet I never realised how big it actually was. It’s not until you look at it on a map that you can actually grasp its magnitude. Realising that there was still plenty of exploring to do in this seaside reserve I quickly set about researching and planning a weekend away.

The best thing about The Royal is that it’s easily accessible, not only by car, but you can also utilise public transport to get to and from the park. For the environmentally conscious this set up is ideal, and for me it meant I could catch the train to the southern end of the park and then hike the 24km coastal walk before hopping on a ferry back to civilisation at the parks northern limit. The only catch is that public transport can be a little unpredictable at times, with trains often late and ferries cancelled if seas are too rough. But a good weather forecast gave me plenty of confidence that I’d have no troubles – plus have great conditions for my weekend’s fun.

My train from Central to Otford along the South Coast Rail line arrived right on time at 7:01am. I must have looked like a backpacker because a woman on the platform asked me where I was from. It would have come as a shock when in my broad Aussie accent I replied to her enquiry with “Just down the road mate”. An hour later and I was at the Otford station, and a five-minute uphill walk saw me at the start of the coastal track. The views from the Otford lookout gave me a taste of what to expect over the weekend. To the south I could see Grand Pacific Drive snaking its way towards Wollongong, and to the north was a rugged coastline with sheer rock faces and a rolling ocean.

It wasn’t far into the walk that I started to understand why this was the first National Park to be declared in Australia (1879), and the second one in the world. There is an incredible natural diversity across the 16,000 hectares of the park, from rainforest and grassy woodlands to freshwater wetlands and coastal heathland. Combine this with an abundance of native animals and the parks Aboriginal heritage and you have a very unique place.

The clearly marked track gently meanders through the heavily timbered bush, affording beautiful filtered views through the scrub to the ocean beyond. It was a very relaxing walk and with a cool sea breeze blowing I hardly raised a sweat as I wandered along the undulating, leaf-littered path.

Turning inland the coastal track passes Werrong Beach lookout. This is a nice spot for a quick stop to enjoy the views of the beach below, which incidentally is the only official nudist beach in the park. Being Spring I think the cold water kept the sunbathers away. Continuing on I reached my first major stop by late morning, North Era campground. This is one of the few spots in the park where you can camp, and being such a pretty location and in close proximity to the city the limited sites can fill up during summer school holidays. Thankfully for me there was not a soul around so I got the gas stove out and boiled some water for morning tea.

North Era campsite is a large grassy area just above the beach with a small stream flowing down the middle. There‘s plenty of space for campers and a simple pit toilet, but wood fires are not permitted, as is the case throughout the park, and there is no drinking water available. I spent half an hour relaxing in the shade, recharging my batteries before picking up my pack and continuing onward.

By now the sun was high but the thick canopy provided plenty of protection from the midday glare. I could imagine that this mostly shady walk would be fairly comfortable even in summer. Leaving North Era the track takes you along a coastal headland and across slippery rocks with waves crashing nearby. It’s a short walk before reaching Garie Beach, a popular surf spot with road access and civilised facilities. Here I donned the board shorts for a swim. The icy water was refreshing but meant I could only handle a quick dip.

Leaving Garie behind I traversed the cliffs and quickly covered several kilometers, pausing briefly to marvel at Eagle Rock (named so because of its uncanny resemblance to an eagle) before arriving at Curracurrang, my campsite for the night. This secluded little bay is just beyond half way and makes the ideal place for a quiet night. I quickly got about setting camp before taking the time to sit on the rocks to enjoy the sunset. As soon as the darkness arrived so to did the cold, so I retreated to the comfort of a warm coffee, a sandwich and an early nights sleep.

Morning arrived quickly, with a visit from an inquisitive wallaby being the only disturbance to an otherwise perfect nights sleep. I indulged in some chocolate and a coffee before packing up my tent and heading down to the water for a ‘wakeup’ dip. The crisp water proved the perfect tonic to revitalise my sore muscles and get me psyched for the day ahead.

By 9am I was on my way, reaching Wattamolla soon after. This cove with its lagoon and waterfall is a highlight of the walk. In Aboriginal, Wattamolla means “Place near running water” and if you ever do the coastal walk be sure to put some time aside to explore this pretty spot and have a swim in the freshwater creek.

After a few photos I continued on my way, crossing the creek and heading down the sandy, narrow track. The trail moved inland a little then took a turn back towards the coast and Little Marley Beach, followed by Big Marley and then up the Marley headland. It’s the cliffs near Marley Head where I enjoyed some of the most spectacular panoramic views I have ever seen. The waves were pounding the sheer sandstone cliffs, with a clear blue sky creating the ideal backdrop. You could be forgiven for thinking you were in the middle of nowhere, with an endless rugged coastline as far as the eye can see. The reality though, is that with a couple of hours you could be in the middle of Sydney!

Marching on there wasn’t long to go before my trip would come to an end. The track was starting to show signs of heavy use and increasingly I could see boats cruising in the ocean ahead. I trudged the final kilometre or so to the end of the dirt trail and the sign welcoming visitors to the Royal National Park. From there it was a 10-minute walk around the streets of Bundeena to the ferry wharf, where I waited for 20 minutes for my ride back to the big smoke. The boat trip to Sutherland was a nice transition from the serenity of the past 40 hours to my normal life back in the ‘burbs, and it gave me plenty of time to reflect upon the fantastic weekend I’d had and plan my next trip – maybe I’ll go to the Top End?

Getting There

Trains to Otford depart fairly regularly from Sydney Central station. From there you can head north along the coastal walk and either overnight in the park or cover the 24km in a single day. From the northern end of the park you can catch one of the hourly ferries from Bundeena to Cronulla. Timetables vary according to season and day, so visit www.cronullaferries.com.au for info.

Alternatively, the park is a 32km drive down the Princes Hwy from Sydney, and 40km north of Wollongong. There is ample parking at the major sites and all access roads are sealed.

Park Info

Beyond the Coastal Walk there are several other trails throughout the park, ranging from a leisurely 30min stroll to a challenging 10km half-day hike.

Solid fuel fires are not permitted, so pack a gas or liquid fuel stove.

Day visitors driving to the park will need to pay $11, and be warned that the gates to all park areas are locked at 8:30pm.

For campsite bookings contact the NPWS between 10:30am and 1:30pm Monday to Friday (02 9542 0683).

For those in need of some refreshments there are kiosks at Wattamolla and Garie Beach.

Camping fees are $5 per adult per night and $3 per child per night.

At the time of my trip a ferry ticket cost $5.40.

This annual event is held at Boryeong city’s Daechon Beach in Chungcheongnam-do Province. Each year, mud is dug up from nearby flats, trucked into the beach and dumped at a ‘Mud Experience Land’. Festivities continue day and night, and include mud slides, mud wrestling and mud massages – basically all things mud!

The people of the area discovered that the mud flats have a high concentration of Germanium and a host of other minerals that are beneficial for the skin, so it was more lucrative as a tourist attraction than for agriculture. Regardless of the clever marketing that promotes the idea of coming to town to get covered in the ‘Healthy’ mud, the carnival atmosphere is a whole lot of fun and makes the festival a great way for a family, or the young at heart, to spend a day.

When: July 16^th to 24^th 2011

For more information visit: www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_2_1.jsp?cid=697135

Dhobi Ghaat

The dhobi in India refers to a traditional laundryman, who will collect your dirty linen, wash it, and return it neatly pressed to your doorstep. All for a meager amount. In Mahalaxmi, Mumbai, there is a place called Dhobi Ghaat. It’s a special type of open-air laundry where the dhobi’s wash thousands of clothes a day. Hundreds of dhobi’s are seen washing clothes and linen at the same time – it’s a real spectacle!

Cafe Leopold, Colaba Causeway

These days, it’s easy to get lost in the myth of Leopold. More than any other Mumbai bar, Leo as the regulars call it, has lent itself to legend. For starters, it’s been around since 1871. Then there’s Gregory David Roberts’ best-selling Mumbai fable titled Shantaram. Leopold is the book’s version of the Mos Eisley Cantina from Star Wars, an oasis for sun-scorched travelers that is home to both villainy and valor. And on a summer afternoon, Leopold shamelessly plays to the myth, packed with tourists tossing back cold booze and hot meat. You can even buy a copy of Shantaram at the counter.

The myth takes a darker turn when you notice the bullet-holes in the glass. On the night of 26/11, this is where the gunmen opened fire first. But the truth is, Leopold is at its best when you throw out the baggage surrounding it and just enjoy your drink, and watch the tourist machine that is Colaba. Or, if you want to shut the city out completely, round up some friends, vanish into the cafe’s more pub-like upper section, and treat yourself to the steak.

Mumbai Shopping

Shopping in Mumbai is a memorable experience. As you wander through its bazaars with striking names like Chor Bazaar, Mutton Street and Zaveri Bazaar, you feel like you’re in another time. At Chor Bazar you’ll find a phenomenal collection of antiques, jewelry, wooden articles, leatherware and general bric-a-brac.

Crawford market, famous for flowers, fruits, meat and fish, is a place worth wandering around with your camera. For colourful and innovative carpets you should head for Mereweather Road behind the Taj Mahal Hotel. Here the range is extensive, exclusive and the prices slightly higher. For those who look for the glamorous the ideal place to shell out some money would be Kemps Corner, Warden Road, Breach Candy and Napean Sea Road.

Bandra, the so-called Queen of Suburbs, is the residential abode of the who’s who of Mumbai. Linking Road joins Bandra to Khar and is lined on both sides with showrooms for the elite. But the striking element here is the pavement selling, which adds to the thrill while you walk out of a posh showroom.

Visit a Cricket Field

Mumbai has thrown up some of India’s biggest cricket stars. Sunil Gavaskar, Sandeep Patil, Ravi Shastri and Sachin Tendulkar all earned their early stripes and scars on the public battlegrounds of the city. A visit to one of the local cricket grounds, known as maidans, is a fun way to experience the cricket culture of India.

Across from the stunning World Heritage Victoria Terminus station building is Azad Maidan. This popular park is where the enthusiastic arrive with a chipped set of stumps, a taped up bat, a battered ball and a will to play. Find your own space to play a match or join in with the locals.

Ride a Rickshaw

There are taxis and tour buses to get around town and visit the major sites. But for an authentic Indian experience you have to take a ride in a rickshaw. Otherwise known as Tuk Tuk’s, these noisy little scooters that have been turned into cabs are how the locals travel. While they don’t offer great comfort and safety, they are loads of fun to travel in and inexpensive too.

Gateway of India

The Gateway of India is located on the waterfront in the Apollo Bunder area in South Mumbai. It was originally a crude jetty used by fisher folks, but was later renovated and used as a landing place for British governors and other distinguished people. In earlier times, the Gateway was the monument that visitors arriving by boat would have first seen in the city of Mumbai.

Its design is a combination of both Hindu and Muslim architectural styles. The arch is in Muslim style while the decorations are in Hindu style. The central dome is 15 metres in diameter and 26 metres above ground at its highest point. The whole harbour front was realigned in order to come in line with a planned esplanade that would sweep down to the centre of the town. Due to a lack of funds, the approach road was never built, and so the Gateway stands at an angle to the road leading up to it.

Chowpatty Beach

This popular beach is where celebrations for festivals such as Coconut Day and the Ganesh Chaturthi immersions take place. Besides little kiosks selling Bombay’s special snacks, Bhelpuri & Kulfi (local ice cream) one can find professional masseurs, pony leaders, contortionists, snake charmers, monkey-trainers, balloon sellers, flower-girls and lots more.

On the beach are statues of India’s freedom fighters, Lokmanya Tilak and Vithalbhai Patel who symbolise the freedom struggle. Chowpatty occupies a special place in the life of Bombay, having been the venue of mass political meetings in the pre-independence era.

The Taj Hotel

Looking for somewhere to stay? Try this place! The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower is a prestigious, luxury, five-star hotel located in the Colaba region of Mumbai, next to the Gateway of India. This iconic 107-year-old heritage building has hosted a long list of notable guests including The Beatles, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Bill Clinton, Jacques Chirac, The Prince of Wales, Michael Palin, Hillary Clinton, Michelle & Barack Obama. According to the BBC, after the Mumbai attacks of November 2008 by terrorists, the hotel serves as a symbol of Mumbai’s resilience.

The hotel is an architectural marvel and brings together Moorish, Oriental and Florentine styles. Offering panoramic views of the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India, the hotel is a gracious landmark of the city of Mumbai.

At the center of the Apple Isle is the states top attraction, the gorgeous Cradle Mountain.

It’s a special place with the most pristine and picturesque of wilderness environments. For hikers there are countless tracks and trails to explore, for fans of photography you can find numerous vantage points from which to snap your shots, and if relaxing is what you’re into then just setup your camp stool and enjoy the clean, fresh air.

What makes Cradle Mountain the highlight of The Apple Isle is its raw natural beauty. It’s a unique piece of Mother Nature that has a powerful presence. The jagged contours of the mountain and the gorgeous Dove Lake that sits at its base, were carved by glacial activity many thousands of years ago, and now provide the perfect backdrop for a wilderness getaway. The surrounding ancient rainforests, alpine heathlands and cascading icy streams provide a range of environments to explore.

For the energetic, Cradle Mountain is the starting point for the iconic Overland Track, a six day walk through the heart of the National Park. But beyond this there are loads of other nearby attractions that justify a visit to the area.

To start with, you can get a close look at the Tasmanian Wilderness from horseback while taking a trail ride with Cradle Country Adventures. For the more adventurous there’s also quadbiking and four wheel drive tours available. Secondly, there’s a Tasmanian Devil interpretation and viewing centre at Cradle Mountain, aptly called devils@cradle. Here you can experience an up-close encounter with these intriguing little animals.

For an aerial view of this amazing landscape you can hop on board with Cradle Mountain Helicopters and enjoy a scenic flight that takes in stunning views of the mountain, Waterfall Valley, Crater Lake and much more of this World Heritage area.

And finally, there’s the world famous trout fishing on offer in almost every waterway in the region. All you need is some light tackle or a fly rod and you’ll have no troubles catching some of the local brown and rainbow trout that inhabit the crystal clear rivers, streams and lakes that make this part of Tassie so beautiful.

GETTING THERE:

Cradle Mountain is about 250km, or three hours drive, south west of Launceston, via the A1 highway.

If you catch the Spirit of Tasmania, then from Devonport it’s around 1.5 hours of scenic driving via Spreyton and Moina.

For more information on the area, including accommodation, click here!

My journey began in the city of churches, Adelaide, home of Coopers beer and the gateway to some of Australia’s best adventures. Head south and you have the Great Ocean Rd, east takes you to the mighty Murray River, and to the west lies the Great Australian Bite and Nullarbor Plain. But my travels saw me heading north, leaving the city lights in my rear view mirror as my mate Al and I made our way through the Flinders Ranges and onto the Oodnadatta Track.

This part of Oz generally plays second fiddle to the tropical north and road trips like the Old Telegraph Track or Gibb River road, but those that have taken the challenge and made their way through the red centre via Strzeleki, Birdsville or Oodnadatta Tracks, can attest to its attraction. The days might be hot and the landscape barren, but there’s something about it that draws you in.

The Flinders Ranges

It’s not until you’ve left the wineries in your dust and made your way through Port Augusta that the adventure begins. The scenery is dominated by wheat farms and grazing country and in the distance you can see a few little bumps on the horizon. After an hour or so the bumps turn to mountains and it becomes apparent why the Flinders Ranges are so popular.

The landscape is not unlike an African Savannah, with extensive golden grass plains giving way to ancient rocky escarpments. The weathered hillsides are cloaked in khaki green eucalypts and sclerophyllous shrubs, which contrast beautifully with the red earth below.

The major drawcard of the Flinders is Wilpena Pound, some 150km from Port Augusta. The nearest major township is Hawker, but at the Wilpena Pound visitors centre you can find basic supplies and fuel. Upon arrival here be sure to get your hands on a map of the area and a parks pass. Once armed with a map you’ll easily be able to find your way around to the major sites.

On this occasion we spent two nights at Rawnsley Park Station in one of their campsites. There’s plenty to do in the area, including awesome driving through places like Brachina Gorge, but to get a better perspective of Wilpena Pound you’ll need to hop on a scenic flight. Which is well worth it because from the air you can see the entire crater-like formation of the pound.

Before rolling out of Wilpena we swung by the visitors centre to get an up to date weather forecast and enquire about the track conditions ahead. Things looked a little bleak, with predictions of possible showers for the coming few days. A friendly traveller beside me at the desk commented they had just come down the Oodnadatta Track and things were fine. So we left a little cautious but confident we’d make it without any fuss. Little were we to know that those ‘showers’ would rapidly become major storms.

Oodnadatta Track

Leaving Wilpena Pound via the north-bound dirt road to Blinman provides fantastic views and eases you into the desolate landscape you can expect for the next few days. The drive takes you through Parachilna Gorge, a bumpy track with plenty of washouts, and then before you know it the mountains quickly turn to foothills before flattening out to form an endless desert plain.

For foodies, the last place you’ll get a decent feed and great coffee is at Parachilna’s Prairie Hotel. The signpost out the front gives you a good indication of what you can expect to find on the menu – kangaroo, emu and even camel! We had a quick stop to refuel the LandCruiser, and ourselves, then rolled out for a few days of adventure.

From Parachilna it’s about 180km to the start of the Oodnadatta Track. On the way there you pass the southern end of Strzelecki Track and at the town of Marree you’re faced with a choice – turn right and tackle the Birdsville Track, or go left and take on the challenge of Oodnadatta. Our choice was settled over a few beers months ago, so without hesitation the left indicator went on.

The Oodnadatta Track is far more than just a scenic Outback road. It’s a 650km journey that takes you back to the early days of European exploration and settlement. It follows the original Ghan railway which, in fact, was also an aboriginal trade route and the original track taken by explorer Stuart. The name ‘Ghan’ was in reference to the Afghan cameleers that once followed this route as they moved people and supplies between Adelaide and Alice Springs. Nowadays, historical relics, such as timber sleepers and ruins, are strewn about the trackside. These provide a reminder of a time passed and are a real testament to the pioneering spirit.

Under normal conditions the track isn’t all that demanding. The road is wide and well maintained, with the major problems for vehicles coming from the stones and old railway nails, both of which can not only puncture a tyre but can also cause serious undercarriage damage. What makes this trip such a challenge and presents the danger for four wheel drivers is the remoteness.

Out here there’s very little! It’s a dry and desolate landscape and there are huge distances between fuel stops and watering holes. This means you and your 4WD need to be well prepared. Spare fuel, food and ample water to last a few days are musts, plus two spare tyres and extra vehicle fluids are highly recommended. I had absolute confidence in my fourbies reliability, the 200 Series LandCruiser is arguably the toughest 4WD around!

Heading to Alice

The Oodnadatta track passes several key sites as it makes its northward journey. First stop for most is one of the many vantage points where you can gaze across the stark white plain that is Lake Eyre. The majority of the time it’s a dry saltpan. But on rare occasions it floods, attracting birds and tourists from far around. Empty or full, the lake is an amazing spectacle. There are several access tracks that allow you to explore it a little closer. Though be warned, often the cracked, dry-looking surface is just a thin crust that gives way to mud. The sand can also be really soft, so you may need to deflate your tyres a little.

Next stop along the Oodnadatta Track is Coward Springs, which was where we decided to spend the night. Coward Springs Campground was once a station on the old Ghan railway line. The site was constructed in 1888 and has now been restored with some great additions like shady campsites, each with their own fireplace, and facilities including toilets and showers. Other attractions to this cosy campground are the artesian hot spa, made using old railway sleepers, and the small museum.

Sitting by the campfire that night we were treated to a natural lightshow. We were surrounded by huge electrical storms that moved quickly across the horizon. It may have looked spectacular, but when you’re rolled up in a swag in the middle of nowhere, the last thing you want are thunderstorms that could potentially leave you stranded. But after a rough nights sleep we arose to find only a small amount of rain had been dumped on us, so we were pretty confident of getting through to the end of our journey.

Not far from Coward Springs, and at around the 220km point of the trip from Marree, is the William Creek Hotel. This is where you can fuel up your car, grab a feed and have a cold beer. The pub is an Outback icon and during the peak season it’s a hive of activity as four wheel drivers, backpackers and tourist buses make their journeys up and down the Oodnadatta Track. There’s limited accommodation available in the form of camp facilities and small cabins, but for us it was just a quick stop before heading further north to the legendary Pink Roadhouse. We didn’t want to hang around too long as the road conditions were starting to deteriorate and there was still another 430km to the blacktop.

Another 210km of dust and corrugations brings you to the legendary pink roadhouse at Oodnadatta. This is a major stop for every traveller passing through thie area. Apart from looking a little odd, here you’ll find fuel, supplies and a caravan park, plus the friendly folks that run the place can provide info about track conditions and weather. Most importantly though, here you can get tyres and vehicle repairs, or if you’ve had major trouble they can arrange for vehicle transport and recovery.

Leaving Oodnadatta you have a couple of choices. Firstly, you can take a more northbound track that follows the Old Ghan Rail Route. This track is usually in pretty good condition and most drivers and vehicles can handle it. Apart from taking you into the Witjira National Park and Dalhousie Springs, it’s a more adventurous way to cross into the Northern Territory via arguably the most remote pub in Australia – Mt Dare. This was our original plan, but due to the recent storms the road was closed, which meant we had to take a new route.

Option two is to stick to the Oodnadatta Track. It makes its way a little more westward, where after about 220km you come to the town of Marla and the Stuart Highway. While this might be the end of the track, there’s still plenty more to explore on the road ahead. Over the next couple of days we slowly made our way to Alice Springs via Lambert’s Centre of Australia, and had it not rained so heavily we would have headed into the McDonald Ranges. But reaching the Alice meant the end of the first stage of our adventure. The second part was a little more civilised, an overnight train ride back to Adelaide onboard the legendary Ghan.

Heading to the centre of Australia along the Oodnadatta Track is a remarkable and rewarding journey. And while it might not be a tough road to conquer, it’s a trip that will undoubtedly give you an appreciation for how vast, remote and contrasting the Australian Outback can be.

The Palace was burnt to the ground during the Japanese invasion in 1592 and destroyed again in 1623. But throughout Changdeok’s turbulent history, each time it was reconstructed, the repairs were true to its original design.

Changdeok, like the other Five Grand Palaces in Seoul, was heavily destroyed during the Japanese occupation of Korea. Currently, only 30% of the Palace structures remain.

Behind the palace lies a 78-acre garden, which was originally created for the use of the royal family and palace women. It incorporates a lotus pond, various pavilions, landscaped lawns, century-old trees, and beautiful flowers. The surroundings and the palace are well matched, all blended in a harmonious manner. The garden was an extremely private space for the king and had been called the Forbidden garden, because even high officials could not dare to come in without the king’s permission.

The king would host various ceremonies in his garden, including military inspections, but for the most part it was a place of relaxation and entertainment, often being the site of feasts, archery games, or garden parties.

The Ongnyucheon or “Jade Stream” area is of particular beauty and interest. It contains a U-shaped water channel, carved into the stone in 1636. It was used for floating wine cups across the pool, and ended with a small waterfall and an inscribed poem on the boulder above it. The idea was that guests at garden parties would have to recite a poem as the glass floated down the channel towards the waterfall. If they didn’t come up with a verse in time the glass would tumble into the pool below.

For more information on this amazing landmark visit: www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel2/76

But this is French Polynesia so the freezers might also hold entire carcasses of veal, or suckling pigs ready for roasting on a spit. There will be an amazing selection of tropical fruits too, while the cookware section features the largest cake pans you’ve ever seen, as well as huge cooking pots and serving bowls. Those are for the locals who love a party and cook generously!

It seems appropriate that these islands are sometimes called the Society Islands. Rightly so, for Polynesians are perhaps the most sociable people on the planet. They absolutely love any excuse for a big meal, and the ahima’a – the Tahitian oven – is the way to go.

Here, meats and vegetables are wrapped in leaves and placed in a pit of hot stones then covered with earth, which allows plenty of time for socialising while the meal cooks. These days families mainly do this for Sunday lunch, but it means everyone is welcome – and can be assured of beginning the new week very well-fed indeed!

What’s on the Menu?

Polynesia’s rich volcanic soil means these islands can grow almost anything. There are 300 different types of bananas alone, as well as avocados, coconuts, papaya, breadfruit (uru), taro and those acidic Tahitian limes which are crucial to the making of Tahiti’s classic dish: poisson cru.

The best place to see all the produce is at the Papeete Markets, or any of the smaller local markets around Tahiti or on nearby Moorea. There you will find gleaming banks of fish so fresh they almost wink at you, as well as crabs and local lobsters. Elsewhere are piles of copper-red bananas, or plantains, used for cooking rather than snacking, prickly pineapples, and the mainstay of Polynesian meals – starchy sweet potatoes, cassava, taro root and breadfruit.

Visit on a Sunday morning for the best action when the locals drop in to pick up the makings for those massive family lunches.

Dining for Everybody

‘Tahitian’ food is really a wonderful mixture of cuisines, gathered from all the many races which have come together over the past few centuries in French Polynesia. There is French food of course, but even these dishes often rely on local flavours such as coconut or pineapple to add extra panache.

Chinese have played a large role in the country since earliest settlement so there are many Chinese restaurants too. With close links to Hawaii, you’ll find Japanese sushi bars and restaurants, and of course anywhere by the water seafood will be featured and is bound to lean towards Polynesian cuisine.

In addition to this, the modern influences of fast food chains, burger bars and snack bars have become popular with younger locals and tourists alike. As in France, it is also easy to find creperies, boulangeries, sandwich shops and pizza places.

Papeete the capital of French Polynesia on the island of Tahiti naturally has the most restaurants and the widest choices. There are many other restaurants  scattered around the edge of the main island in various communities and these are worth exploring as well.

Want to Go Local?

Although most large tourist hotels offer three meals a day, how about getting out and about with a coffee and croissant, French-style, at a nearby bakery?

Visitors staying in family pensions and self-catering places may also want to find good food and authentic tastes. Markets are the ideal place for this. There you can buy the freshest foods and stock up with all the necessary advice you need from a local who can explain what to do with your purchases.

Fine Dining

Visitors have almost limitless choices for fine dining on Tahiti and Her Islands. Every hotel and resort has a fine restaurant and there are dozens more in the towns and Papeete itself, many with a distinctly French feel to them. As in France, many offer ‘touristique’ or ‘gastronomique’ menus – set-price three or four-course menus with two or three choices. In finer restaurants entrees and mains are often a similar price of around A$45; desserts A$20; a coffee A$6.

Good restaurants have extensive wine lists, and red wines are often served cold.

On a Budget?

Bakeries and cafes make inexpensive breakfast stops. For lunches plan a picnic. Buy the makings at the supermarket or local market then head for the beach. For dinner look for small family-run restaurants and bistros. Or try a creperie or pizzeria.

The roulettes on the waterfront in Papeete are a great choice for an evening meal – and they stay open late. Chinese, seafood, grills, crepes – they’re all here. Generous servings are around A$20.

There are good wines made on an outer island of French Polynesia and they are less expensive than imported French wines. Wines from other countries such as Australia and New Zealand are expensive due to the high import tax.

No matter how tight your budget, do make sure to include some meals in an elegant restaurant, regardless of the cost. After all, few of us ever reach paradise, and it would be a shame not to experience all its pleasures!

Don’t Leave Tahiti Without Tasting:

Coconut crab

Huero – mahi mahi roe

O Tahiti bottled water

Hinano Beer

Crepes from a roulotte

Breadfruit – especially if baked in a pit oven

The juice of a freshly opened young coconut

The local Rangiroa wine

The local dish, poisson cru

Despite its French name, the local dish of Tahiti is called poisson cru. It’s a simple but very tasty meal that combines all the best ingredients of the islands to create a fresh and flavoursome mealtime favourite. Every cook has there own version and each family firmly believes theirs is the best one!

Ingredients:

500g Tuna

2 Limes

Coconut cream

1 Carrot

1 Onion

2 Tomato

2 Tbl spoons chopped parsley

Salt and Pepper

This is so easy to make, anyone can do it. Cut the tuna into bite-sized pieces, place in a bowl and squeeze the lime over the top, mixing it through before putting aside. Next, dice the tomato, finely slice the onion and shred the carrot. Remove the tuna from the limejuice and add it to the chopped vegetables. Finally, pour the coconut cream over the top of everything to taste, and mix thoroughly. Sprinkle parsley over the top and plate it up with a side of salad. Serves six.